Home!

Well – it’s over! 407 days on the road and we are home again. We have travelled through every mainland state of Australia and stayed at 80 different camp sites for durations ranging from 1 night to 2  months.

Just to summerise our trip:

2015

Leaving Perth in April 2015 we headed across the Nullarbor, during May we spent time on Eyre Peninsular and Flinders Ranges in SA, all June was spent heading up the middle stopping at Alice Springs, Longreach Waterhole, Mataranka and Edith Falls for lengthy periods, most of July and half of August was spent travelling across the Savanah Way thru Normanton, Croyden, Mt. Surprise to Tinnaroo Dam in far north QLD, the second half of August and nearly all September was spent in north QLD (almost a  month fishing and camping with my brother-in-law in Mackay), all September, October and November was spent at various lakes, dams and rivers in central QLD chasing red claw and the mighty Saratoga, December and January was spent with family in Brisbane.

2016

We left Brissy at the end of January and spent most of February chasing Murray Cod and Yellowbelly in central NSW at various lakes, dams and rivers, March saw us visiting the Western Plains Zoo at Dubbo and catching up again with family at Orange and Wollongong, we spent my birthday week at Wallagaraugh River Resort near Mallacoota catching flathead and bream, April was spent catching up with new friends and old around Melbourne and at Portland in southern Victoria, May saw us camping along the Murray River (in Vic and SA) and catching KG whiting at Venus Bay in SA, and finally during June we trekked across the Nullarbor to home.

What a trip - so many fantastic places visited - meeting up with so many new friends, old friends, family and just nice people who like us are out there enjoying what Australia has on show. We joked, had cook-ups, fishing competitions, card competitions, swapped recipes, fishing secrets and locations of that “best free camp”.

It wasn’t all beer and skittles - we had our share of troubles - mainly car related. Mitsubishi in Alice Springs caused us lots of grief blowing up our gearbox seals and putting cheap petrol engine oil in the motor, ARB in Mount Isa broke and stripped three wheel studs when we got new tyres fitted by them, I banged the intercooler in the Flinders Ranges which caused us grief and a new intercooler 12 months later. Both starting and deep cycle batteries died and a flat tyre in Portland rounded things up. On our first trip around Australia in 2012-2013 we climbed mountains, hiked for miles and rode our bikes everywhere – not so this trip – Linda’s hip replacement and osteo in both my knees slowed us down and made us realise that perhaps we are getting older? – so things were done at a more sedate pace this time round but we still achieved everything we wanted to do.

Thanks  - to all of you who followed our blog, treated us like kings when we visited, shared our camps and strays and made the last fourteen months on the road a trip of a lifetime!

The Penthouse at Murray River Caravan Park - South Yunderup WA 

Heading Home

Finally heading west!

According to the SATNAV in the Pajero its 2,065klm from Haslam on the Eyre Peninsular in SA across the Nullarbor to Pinjarra in WA. We had planned to travel across to Norseman in convoy with our friends Carol and Steve for company and also security/back-up across the wide open spaces – this didn’t quiet go to plan as “someone” miscalculated the number of overnight stays (distance) between the WA border and Kambalda.

The Champs - 2016 Nullarbor Sequence Comp

Usually coming across the Nullarbor involves driving for 5-6 hours, selecting a roadside stop where you can get away from the traffic noise, getting a fire and diner organised, early to bed and doing the same thing the next day.

Roxy and her valets on the Bight

As “someone” miscalculated the distance to Kambalda (and we had made arrangements to catch up with family there) we did a marathon 11 hours and nearly 600lkm on one of the days – this is when we left our friends behind.

Some folk say driving across from Ceduna to Perth is a boring drive – we disagree – it’s quiet an interesting trip transiting from the rolling wheat and sheep farms near Ceduna, to the Mallee Scrub, onto the treeless Nullarbor, across the scenic Great Australian Bight, back into the Mallee and Salmon Gum forests of WA, through the vast cleared paddocks of the WA wheat belt into Perth.

Our last camp for this trip at Meckering WA

It’s an experience that we have enjoyed several times now and hope to do again.

Mission Accomplished

Nice spot - that's our van in the background

We were on a mission! Spend a week at Venus Bay to fill up the freezer with King George Whiting fillets, drop into Haslam Beach free camp for a couple of nights to top up on squid and the fill whatever room was left in the freezer with fresh oysters from the oyster farms along the Eyre Peninsula west coast.

You launch off the sand at Venus Bay

First three days at Venus Bay saw one KG come into the tinny despite many hours in bitterly cold weather soaking bait. Things got worse when pulling up the anchor the anchor rope broke (rotten after many years use) and I lost my anchor. So after a 145klm round trip to Streaky Bay for a new anchor and rope it was round two of KB vs KG.

She's a "keeper" my Linda

The god’s must have been smiling upon me as for each remaining fishing trip it was a bag limit of KG whiting every time! So off we traveled to Haslam to add nine squid to the fridge and six dozen oysters.

Mission accomplished!

Popular with the pelicans

Our Cadel spell

Another rough free camp on the Murray

Cadel free camp right on the river at Cadel had been recommended to us by several other travelers as a great spot to camp as they illuminate the river cliffs at night and there are nice green lawns to walk barefoot on.  

The river rats!

We had also been challenged by the “GOILS” (AKA Linda and Carol) to the 2016 “Best of Three” - Five Hundred Championships.

So after hooking up our vans at Moorook we traveled almost 77klms by road and Ferry to Cadel – an exhausting trip but hey sometimes you have just got to cover these huge distances to get to a good camp spot J.

Card Central!

After setting up we trekked into town to check out the locals. After at least 1klm we were parched – luckily the Cadel Club had just opened and we were able to quench our thirst with cold beer and wine. After donating $20 each to the pokies we get set off home to get prepared for the light show and the card challenge.

Home Roxy!

The river cliffs shone red in the night and after some obligatory photos it was time for beer and cards.

The Official "World 500 Challenge" score sheet

Being a true gentleman I will not point out that boys whipped the goils two nil in the opening games and thus dashed once again their hopes for a win against the Champions (AKA Steve and Kerry).

Next morning we bade goodbye to our friends and after catching the Ferry across the Mersey Murray we headed off to Whyalla.

Bend in the river

Pretty rough camp spot!

Moorook is Aboriginal for “bend in the river” and is also English for “a bloody good camp right on the Murray River with green grass and a boat ramp”. We stayed 10 nights at Moorook camping with our friends Steve and Carol who are off on their winter caravanning trip to north WA.

Dust storm!

The first three days were miserable with almost gale force winds and dust storms. Twice we put up the awning only to put it away again when the wind got up again (once at 1:00AM). The remainder of the time was absolutely beautiful with clear sunny days and cool nights.

Where is my fish!

We took a couple of day trips around the Riverland area to Renmark, Loxton and Barmera –  pretty country with lots of grape vines, almond trees, citrus trees and all manner of other crops – all irrigated from the Murray River.

My first couple of Murray River Yellas

Put the tinnie in when the wind stopped and caught my first Murray River Yellow Belly on spinner baits - weird looking contraptions that look a lot like a coat-hanger with blades and hook attached - but they work.

Happy Camper Allan

Caught quiet a few over several fishing outings and introduced a fellow camper (Allan) to the dark arts of lure fishing – he might be hooked!

Champion Sequence Team

During our stay the Moorook 2016 Sequence ( a new board game) Challenge was held on the banks of the mighty Murray.  I won’t dwell on the score too long  - 5 nil in favour of the boys – sorry girls but you were whipped.

On the Murray at Mildura

Breakfast is served

Our first camp on the Murray River was at Psyche Bends (no not Psycho!) just outside of Mildura. Nice free camp between Kings Billabong and the river Murray with a table and fireplace for each caravan site.

Sunrise over our camp

It was a quiet and relaxing place where we could sit back watch the luxury houseboats wander past and check out the birdlife that abounded along the river.

Sunset over our camp

Sadly no fishing at this camp as there was many warning signs around the camp regarding a blue-green algae outbreak.

Where is our breakfast?

Surprisingly Psyche Bends is where Psyche Pumps http://www.murrayriver.com.au/the-chaffey-trail/psyche-bend-pump-station/  were built in 1891 to pump water into Kings Billabong (28 meters above the river Murray) for irrigation purposes.

Walked 4 klm - and no birds!

Today electric pumps keep the Billabong topped up to maintain the water levels required to maintain the Billabongs and the vast array of flora and fauna that the waterways support. There are numerous walks and drives thru the billabong areas and Linda and I did a 4 klm return walk to one of several bird hides around the billabongs.

Birdless view from the hide

Unfortunately the day we were there the birds were hiding not us - but still a nice walk thru the red gum and black box forest.

The River Queen

No trip along the Murray is complete without doing at least one paddle steamer trip so Linda and I booked a three hour dinner cruise.

Night view of the Murray

Carvery, sweets, live music and a flood-lit cruise along the Murray for $60/head was pretty good value.

Whilst camping on the Murray I was struck down with a mysterious ailment called MRM. I have attached an extract from the Mildura Post which provides details regarding this serious ailment.

Mildura Post 11^th May 2016 – Mr. Murray Cod reporting:

Doctors and scientists along the Murray River between Mildura and Renmark are astounded regarding an outbreak of what is being called the Murray River Malady (MRM). Symptoms include an unexplained rapid weight gain, sore knees and an unquenchable thirst. Doctors believe the malady is spread by Echidna fast anal respiratory tension squirts (FARTS) and may have affected thousands of elderly folk and in particular Grey Nomads who seem to be susceptible to MRM as they are found in large numbers in free camps along the Murray River System. Although Echidna’s are the prime suspect due to being carriers of FARTS the scientist also believe that there could be viruses previously unknown to science living in the murky Murray River depths. As these have not yet been scientifically classified they have been given the code name XXXX and have been quarantined into yellow aluminum cans. Many wives along the Murray River Basin have been inadvertently affected with side effects of MRM with a related malady known as GOMYFB (get off me you fat bastard).

The Mildura Post recently interviewed Mr. Kerry Britton a Grey Nomad who has been stricken by the malady. Mr. Britton was quoted as saying “despite being a healthy 80Kg and running 10klm every morning before breakfast I suddenly was stricken with MRM. I do recall one morning smelling FARTS and downing a few XXXX with lunch. Within a few days I was over 99Kg and suffering sore knees. I knew that I would soon be rooted although my wife complaining of GOMYFB soon put a stop to that thought. Nothing seemed to relieve the symptoms and unquenchable thirst - until scientists isolated an antibody found only in good red wine or occasional bottles of Johnny Walker Red. This antibody has been identified as Preventative Isotope Streptococci Strain (PISS). Mr. Britton stated that whilst being on the PISS he has noticed a relief in the unquenchable thirst but so far nothing seems to be curing the rapid weight gain, sore knees or his wife’s GOMYFB symptoms”

There seemed to be little hope for sufferers of MRM (except for the small relief of getting on the PISS) until a recent medical breakthrough that was announced today. It seems that Wombat Acquired Nocturnal  Kudos (WANKS) combats FARTS and reduces the occurrence of the serious side effects of GOMYFB suffered by many wives after carriers of MRM have been on the PISS.

Portland Paddocks

A port on the land - burning off  night on the farm

We were lucky to be able to stay for almost two weeks at Linda’s nephew’s farm just out of Portland. Michael and Leah had only recently moved from the Claire Valley in SA to Portland to a lovely green seven acre hobby farm and were the perfect hosts when we visited – thanks Guys!

And who's not looking Dusty?

By coincidence and good planning we also caught up with Linda’s oldest brother and wife, oldest sister and hubby and some old friends from Perth. Linda’s brother and wife have built a small chalet on the farm that allows them to pull their caravan in level with the chalet floor and use the van for cooking and sleeping whilst having the comfort of a full sized lounge and bathroom at the van door.

Michael's first ever bream on a lure

Now let’s get to the important part of the story – the fishing! Unfortunately only got out twice – once in my tinnie with Michael chasing that elusive Estuary Perch up the Fitzroy River and an evening at Snapper Point beach fishing. The EP’s remain elusive (next trip a week on the Glenelg River is mandatory!) but surprisingly we caught snapper at Snapper Point – not large but my first snapper off the beach!

Taking terns on the beach

Took in some of the local attractions with the gang while we were in Portland.

Ancient cave people!

Had several outings to Cape Bridgewater lakes and caves, The Enchanted Forest, and a beaut dog beach for lunch.

Little Red Riding Hood and handsome Prince

Nice country, nice people and nice stay.

Great Ocean Road

The sights along the Great Ocean Road (GOR) are probably some of the most photographed spots in Australia so it is going to be near impossible to post any original photos for this blog. Like thousands of other Grey Nomads the GOR was on our bucket list since we started travelling. We were advised by other experienced travelers that although is was easy enough to tow a caravan along the GOR it is difficult at times due to restricted parking and the sheer volume of travelers to find a spot to park your van at the various attractions along the GOR.

Port Campbell is a nice spot

So – our plan was to leave our van at Portland and drive back up the GOR to Apollo Bay, stay the night at Port Campbell and then take leisurely drive back to Portland the next day after taking in all the sights along the way and having a night out of our caravan at a luxury hotel for a night.

Not fishing weather!

We didn’t count on gale force winds and pouring rain all the first day so after getting as far as Lavers Hill and not being able to see more than 20 meters in front of us we turned around and headed back to Port Campbell to book into our motel, warm up in the hot spa, and visit a local restaurant for dinner.

 One of many sunrise photos

Next morning we got up an hour before dawn (noting the stars were out and the rain had disappeared) to do the sunrise photo shoot of the Twelve Apostles.

Kerry! - where is my cup of tea!

There were hundreds of tourists (mainly Chinese/Japanese) doing the same thing - good to see now our Oz dollar has softened that the tourist trade has improved.

Loch Ard George - scene of a shipwreck

Well worth getting up early as we captured the morning light and took in a few attractions before breakfast.

Think this was called Bay of Islands

In the Grotto

Noting that we only did about half of the GOR this trip we still have “half a tick” to take off the bucket list next time we are back this way.  Looking forward to it!

Mount Gambier visit

Sinkhole in centre of town

We took a day trip from Portland to Mount Gambier to visit some old friends and take in some of the Limestone Coast that runs from Tailem Bend in South Australia to Nelson in Victoria. We only visited the section from Portland to Mount Gambier but it was a great day out – great scenery and lunch and a guided tour of Mt Gambier with our friends Linda and Lindsey.

Blue Lake Crater - 80 meters deep!

First stop was the Princess Margaret Rose Caves at Nelson. We arrived at 9:45 ready for the 10:00 guided tour. Unfortunately the tour guide had developed a bleeding nose on the way to work (novel excuse that one!) and the 10:00 tour was cancelled. So after a quick walk round we departed the “bloody nose” caves and headed off to Mt Gambier.

Old friends catching up

Mount Gambier link here is a surprisingly big town (in fact a city) which is famous for its crater lakes and sinkhole gardens.

Valley Lake (used to be much bigger)

It would be good to visit the gardens in spring when all the flowers are in bloom but they are still impressive in early winter when we visited.

Wow!

Great day out and we will spend more time around her next time we caravan by.

Colac stop over

Think Linda was shaking a little in Burnley Tunnel

After escaping from Melbourne we headed south on the Princes Highway towards Portland.  We decided to stay two nights at Lake Colac https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Colac  so we could take a day out to tour the area and take in some of the local attractions and scenery.

Nice boat ramp but no lake

The free camp at Lake Colac is right on the shore of the lake with water views, skiing and fishing – IF the lake had any water in it – unfortunately it was dry for the second time in 175 years!

No water - but nice

Still a nice spot with grass, flushing dunnies, town water available and a view over the dry lake bed towards the large country town of Colac.

On top of old smoky

Lake Colac and lots of other nearby lakes were created by volcanic activity and you can still see the remnants of inactive volcano’s and the lush red-soil farmland and dairy farms.

Triplet Falls

We drove up into the temperate rainforests of the Otway Ranges. With massive tree ferns, waterfalls and Australian beech forests – this is a beautiful spot. We did a short walk to Triplet Falls through the rainforest (surprisingly it was raining in the rainforest) and headed out to the Otway Flyway were the world’s longest treetop walk has been built.

Gloomy and green

Plan was to have some lunch and for me to do the walk while Linda relaxed in the café.  After finding out it was 600M walk to the start of the 600M treetop walk and my knee already giving me some grief from the waterfall walk I decided to put the walk off till “next time”.  Lucky I am not a horse – would have been put down by now!