Normanton - in the Gulf

After 16 days free camping (the last 3 at Flinders River in 37C heat) I promised the Bride a bit of luxury – long showers, swimming pool, hot spa, 24/7 power, and some female company.  So we booked into the Normanton Caravan Park for three nights.

Man eating croc

Normanton is a small town of around 600 folks in the wet but well over 1500 when the grey nomands invade in the dry. I am not sure that all the locals appreciate their town being over-run as some of them vacated the town in the busy season. For example – I was looking for a guy who could do a small welding job on my caravan.  No luck – one guy I rang wasn’t interested and the local engineering company closed down in the dry as the owner didn’t like being in town with all the visitors (true story).

Three old pubs

Normanton has a few deli/grocery stores, three pubs, and a bakery that doubles as a butcher ( I was looking for the candle-stick maker J). We had crumbed barra one evening at the Central Hotel. Good meal served on white linen on the verandah. The publican gave us the “Rolls Royce” service as we came back for dinner despite being abused by one of the “locals” earlier in the evening.

We took drive out to Karumba which is on the mouth of the Normanton River 75km from Normanton. Its easy to understand why the grey nomad tinny brigade head there every year – lots of fishing spots from river to sea accessible by small tinny (if you keep away from the crocs). The day we visited every caravan park had no vacancy signs out and the place was packed. There is a barra farm in Karumba which stocks barra in the Gulf and nearby dams and rivers. The hour and a half guided tour was good value and culminated in hand feeding a tank of barra all over a meter in length. There is no way that you can see a barra take the bait out of your hand – you see them eyeing off the squid and microseconds later there is a splash of water and the bait is gone!

Lunch before some serious prospecting (aka pokies)

Sad to say the highlight of our trip to Karumba was lunch at the pub (more barra) and winning over $300 on the pokies. The kilo of fresh cooked prawns purchased on our way home for dinner that  night was a good consolation prize.

On the last day doing nothing more strenuous than sipping a hot cappuccino I turned my head to look at the traffic passing by and compressed a nerve in my neck. Talk about severe pain (in the neck)- my lovely wife had to pack-up, hook-up and chauffeur me to the next caravan park at Croyden.

Flinders River Free Camp

View from our camp at sunrise

Flinders River is a free camp about 60km north of Normanton.  The free camping area is either side of the river accessed by the old disused crossing across the river. The crossing acts as a dam across the river and therefore there is a nice waterhole running for some kilometers upstream from the camp areas.

Eucalyptus Cardoorus

The river level was very low when we stayed but it must be a frightening place when the river is in full flood.  There is a car door stuck up one of the trees were we camped that recorded one of the flood levels.  We were 30 mtrs above the water level and the car door was another 12 mtrs above  us - so a lot of water here at times.

I know there is a croc out there!

As usual whenever we are anywhere near water up this way Linda is on the constant look-out for crocs. 

One of the eight freshwater crocs - look out Linda!

She didn’t believe her eyes when she spotted the first croc sunning itself on the far bank. The most we saw at one time is eight crocs – all freshwater variety so not dangerous - but a good reminder that one of their saltwater man-eating brothers might be around and good reason to not go swimming!

Whistling kite in flight

We stayed for 3 nights at the free camp and for two of the days it exceeded 35C – not much fun if you can’t swim.  Lucky for us that there was no-one camped anywhere near us and thus the generator got a flogging running our AC.

cherabin - good tucka

On the first night I set three cherabin nets and was rewarded with three cherabin. Next night five nets set and another half-dozen cherbin caught. Linda cooked up cheribin in a creamy garlic sauce with fluffy white rice – yummy – I am lucky to be travelling with a master chef!

While we were camped at the river we had the privilege of meeting old Jim. I’ll tell you a bit of a story about Jim – I don’t think he would mind. He was camped by himself in an old van about 100m from us. He had been coming to this river for 25 Years with his wife and family to catch Barra. His wife had passed away 2 years earlier after a five year fight with cancer. Jim would have been in his late 70’s and he suffers from an incurable degenerative nerve condition that causes his hands to shake that much that he cant drink coffee/tea and the simplest of tasks are a huge and lengthy effort for him. For example he knew his car was running a little low in engine oil, but despite having a large drum, funnel and container he asked me to top it up as he would have spilt three litres to get one litre in his motor! At another time he asked me to open a can of Irish stew and put the contents into two bowls with rice – this would give him two days dinner (he couldn't easily use a can opener). 

The Bridge over the River Flinders

Also once a week he gets the girls at the pub in Normanton to cut him a week’s supply of sandwiches so he could have a week’s supply of lunch in his fridge. The thing I will remember most about Jim is how he laughed a lot and how one night he weaved his way down to our caravan for a chat - I don’t think the torch light touched the ground in front of him for more than a second due to the tremors. He must have told me a dozen jokes and we laughed at all of them. I recall I said to him that it must be so frustrating that the simplest of things took forever to do. As was his way he responded with a story. He told me about a guy who was really sad that he couldn't afford a new pair of shoes, but then he met a man who had no feet. An old story but it got the point across!

I will remember old Jim and his laughter, good humour, and zest for life in spite of being dealt some pretty poor cards.

Gregory Downs - free camping

After leaving Cloncurry we traveled almost 300 km to Gregory Downs  to camp on the Gregory River -  a free camp walking distance fom the pub and town.

Nice spot on the river

Wow what a spot. The Gregory River is spring fed so it flows strongly with crystal clear water this time of year.  The camp-sites are either riverside or under the paper-bark trees next to the bank.

The reason we originally came to Gregory Downs was to spend time at Lawn Hill National Park (which we did) but it turned out that the free camp on the river was so good that we ended up staying for 10 nights.  So I have been thinking about what makes a great free camp.  So ………….. in rough priority order:

1. Access to clean water for the caravan shower water tanks. We have two sets of tanks and two pumps/taps in our van – 180 ltrs for showers and washing up, and 55 liters for drinking only. So if we are to have that quick hot shower at the end of the day we need to be able to top up our shower water tanks every 3-4 days.

2. Level sites and reasonable roads/tracks into the camp area. Level sites are not just a nice to have – if you are running a 3 Way Fridge (gas/12VDC/240VAC) these will stop working if they are not level and take days to recover (if at all).

3. Quiet and friendly neighbors. If you’re over 60 the last thing you want is to be camped next to a group of fools who think playing heavy rock over five speakers and two sub-woofers till midnight is cool!

The chain saw maniac has been cutting wood again!

4. Places nearby where you can cut fire wood. Having a fire to cook on and keep you warm is all part of the free camping experience. Understandably most wood within walking distance to a good free camp is depleted – so you need places where you can cut wood within 5kms of where you camp.

5. Access to a chemical toilet dump point nearby (within 20 kms). Us “grey nomads” are pretty environmentally responsible  - we never dump our dunnies in the bush (last resort is to dig a deep hole away from any waterway).

Mr Whistling Kite (one of many species of birds)

6. Lots of birds, native animals, fish, etc. There is nothing better to wake up to the chorus of birds and spend the day chilling out watching the constant changing wildlife at a bush camp. All the better if you can catch some fresh fish or crustacean.

Not a Croc to be seen! - just clean running water

Seven  road-trains every 4 hours (bugger!)

7. Great views and safe swimming areas. Nothing better to look out your caravan window to see the islands/beach/gum trees/billabong/creek/river/lake where you are parked. Also safe clean swimming areas are a bonus if you are up north and like to cool down (without the crocs!).

8. Away from the road noise. A great spot next to the International Airport isn't going to work. Best camps are kilometres from the main road.

9. You can get SAT TV signal. Yep – it’s great to be out enjoying the sights of nature – but it’s also great to catch the News, Footy and IFish occasionally.

10. Internet and phone. If your sitting in a remote camp watching the lightning in the distance and wondering if you should roll up your awning – nothing better than to check out the rain radar and weather warnings on the Net. Also if “Granny” is missing the kids and grandkids – Skype and Facebook keep the fairer half happier.

So there you go – my top ten – am sure most of you grey nomads would have a different list but all will have some of these on the list.

Gregory River Free Camp at Gregory Downs gets an 8/10 as you are camped not far from the bridge over the river and there is no internet and phone. But it rates A+ on all the other criteria – that’s why we stayed 10 nights. 

Mary Kathleen

While we were staying at our Nephew’s place in Cloncurry we were lucky to get a guided tour of the Mary Kathleen town-site and mine. 

The Gang at the entrance to Mary Kathlen

The Mary Kathleen uranium deposit was found in 1954 (about 4 months after I was born) and the mine finally closed in 1984. There were over 2000 people living in the township of Mary Kathleen in its heyday with schools, shopping centers, cinema and swimming pools and football teams.

At the ruins of the processing plant

When the mine closed all the buildings were auctioned off and all that is left of the town is the cement slabs where the buildings were. A lot of the buildings are now resides in Cloncurry. These concrete slabs are very popular with the grey nomads who can park their van up to their private slab in the bush.

The open cut mine (with swimming pool)

The open cut mine is accessible by a good track and is an impressive sight.

Thank you Adam and Kira for a great day out and your hospitality while we stayed in Cloncurry

Clem Walton

Good nigh John-Boy (if your old like me you would remember the Walton's)

Halfway between Mount Isa and Cloncurry is a little free camping gem called Clem Walton Reserve/Corella Dam. Corella Dam was constructed in 1959 to provide water for the newly constructed mining town of Mary Kathleen. Mary Kathleen was a uranium mine that closed in 1982 and nothing remains but some cement slabs where the buildings were situated.

The camping areas are split between two sites one at the Clem Walton Reserve on the creek and around the dam perimeter.  We stayed a night at both sites and both are really great.

Our home at Clem Walton Reserve

At Clem Walton there are lovely grassed areas, tables, FLUSH toilets, and rubbish bins. All this beside a lovely little creek with bountiful bird life and a backing of red hills on the other side. The local council deserves a pat on the back for keeping this place near picture perfect.

On the dam near our campsite

At the dam you have waterside camp spots, bins and the opportunity to catch those tasty red-claw right next to your van. Great spot – next time we will stay for a week and put the tiny tinnie in to chase those red-claw.

Fountain Springs - wow!

Whilst at the dam we went on a wood hunting expedition and took the opportunity to drive out to Fountain Springs. 

One more rock for Linda's collection!

It’s a 23 km drive on bumpy gravel road but nice country and the Springs is worth a visit. We also bagged out on wood and had a great fire that night (love that new chain saw).

NO not Clem Walton - old photo from Camooweal Billabong - last camp

We will be back.

Edith Falls

View of plunge pool at the camp

Edith Falls is in Nitmiluk National Park some 60 km north of Katherine (turn off is 40 km north of Katherine). It’s a beaut place with a huge plunge pool below the falls and big pools and waterfalls on the plateau above the main pool. So popular this time of year that we were told by fellow travellers that to secure a spot in the camp area you had to be there by 10:30 – so we were lined up at 09:30 and lucky we did as it was booked out by 10:30.

The camp area is an oasis with green lawns, BBQ’s, clean amenities, hot showers and plenty of drinking water. Only downside is that there is no power and generators are not allowed (yahoo!).  

We stayed 5 nights and had to be careful that we had the solar panels tracking the sun throughout the day to keep the power up so we can watch -  I Fish, the News, Footy and the Voice every night. I have a small admission to make here – yep I am watching the Voice! I figured out early in our trip that I am can handle one reality TV and sad but true - I chose the Voice. Loving those blind auditions!

The easiest part of the hike to the top

There is a two hour trek up to the plateau above Edith Falls which is very rocky and difficult in places. 

Almost half way - had to go down to water level and up again

A real test for Linda’s new hip. She made it but was sore for a few days later (I didn’t tell her but so was I).  

Swimming at the top waterfall

About half way through the walk there are beautiful rock pools and a waterfall – last time we were here four years ago Linda and I swam under the waterfall. Unfortunately this time Linda couldn’t risk the slippery and steep rocks to get to the water - so after trekking uphill for an hour in warm weather she couldn’t have a swim. Being a gentleman I left her in the shade sitting on a rock and spent 15 minutes swimming while she sweated it out on the rock!

Kimberly Rose - pretty rare

Met a guy who convinced me to go fishing outside the National Park for Barra and Sooty Grunter. So we drove out to where the Edith River crosses the road into the Park and after trekking a few kilometers upstream and finding no water (I mentioned in an earlier post that it was a very poor wet season this year) we returned to bridge to have a few casts – hooked a Sooty on a pooper but lost him a foot from the edge. Hard work trying to catch a fish with hardly any water so we gave up and went back to camp. I did see a small wild Barra – first one for this trip!

Gorge-ous old guy

The Edith River runs into the Katherine River which is famous for the scenic Katherine Gorge. So we decided to treat ourselves to a boat cruise up the gorge and a spectacular buffet lunch overlooking the river. Bloody expensive but one off the “bucket list”. So after travelling back 80 km to the Gorge, we and hundreds of other folk lined up for the two hour cruise. 

A pretty spot

Whilst is a beautiful area we got off the boat with the impression that it was too rushed, too commercialised and not great value for money compared to other gorge tours we have done.  Oh well – we headed up for our spectacular buffet lunch overlooking the river – only to find out that it had been cancelled as not enough people had booked the lunch. We were offered the equivalent value from there standard lunch menu - and good food it was – but not the same as the spectacular buffet lunch we were expecting.  

Oops - caught shopping!

We left the Katherine Gorge having spent $200 on cruises and food and feeling a little disappointed. Oh well as I said earlier – one off the bucket list.

As a foot note: After we finished the Gorge tour we headed back into Katherine to do some serious shopping as we expected that this would need to last us till we got to Mount Isa some weeks away. So after the 45 minute run home in the heat we packed our goodies into the caravan fridge. Nearly lost the lot! - lesson learnt – do not pack up the caravan fridge with warm food and vege’s when its above 32C every day and only gets to 17C at night. Took at least three days for the Caravan Fridge to catch up!

Check out my short video - link below.

My YouTube video - Edith Falls

We of the Never Never - Mataranka

“We of the Never Never”  is the famous Australian book written by Jeannie Gunn the first white woman in the Mataranka area. She lived at Elsey Station which is now a tourist park and the movie version of her book runs every day at midday at the bar – must drive the bar staff crazy by the end of the dry season.

Nice but too much concrete

However I digress – we  never never stay at the Elsey Homestead as it’s a little too commercialised and the hot springs area  now looks like the local swimming pool – all concrete and too many kids!

Roper River - no swimming here!

We have always stayed at the Bitter Springs Caravan Park (just outside of the township of Mataranka)  – it’s just a 500m bike ride down to the thermal pools that despite the 1000’s visiting during the dry the area still retains its natural beauty with lots of fishes, turtles, water lily’s and palm trees.

Bitter Springs Thermal pool

There is a strong constant current flowing from the hot spring and the trick is to jump in with a “noodle” at the top end of the stream and float gently down steam in the crystal clear 34C water to the other end.

Have to get up early to get a photo with no one in the water!

We kept doing this till we had wrinkles on our wrinkles! Don’t forget to stick your things over the end of your noodle as the track back to the start is hard on old people’s feet.

When we got to Mataranka I was suffering from a pretty sore back – after a couple of soaks in the thermal pools all was cured.

There is a small creek behind the Caravan Park and last time I was here in 2011 I caught cheribin (large fresh water prawns) here in my nets – this time nothing – I was told it was a very poor wet season this year and none of the creeks got their annual flush out. The whole area is certainly much drier than last time we were here. Check out my YouTube video at this link  https://youtu.be/5uxa_iU0U0U

We will certainly be stopping for a soak next time we are here.