Lake Mulwala

 I have been dreaming about fishing for Murray Cod at Lake Mulwala (Yarrawonga/Mulwala) for months now and it was the primary reason to stack the kayak on top of the car. 

Well – as usual it was a great place to camp with views across the lake, lots of birdlife and plenty of flat grassy camping spots. Very quiet at this time of year with only a few campers even on weekends. BUT – after a good ten hours of paddling round in the yak throwing lures at every tree (and there are thousands of them), log and anything else of interest not a single bump, follow or anything to indicate that there was a fish in the lake (probably because the water was freezing).

Did I mention freezing - we have never been so cold on some of the cloudy days, with a lot of frost in the mornings and everything iced up and wet till at least 10AM. So, to go out in the yak – standing in the water to launch and only being warm in the middle of the day (on days it was sunny) was a real challenge. 

Although after the frosty mornings it was usually a beautiful sunny day with the temperatures soaring to a balmy 14C on some days (did I mention the freezing weather?). 

We no longer clean the caravan just defrost it! Just joking – the new diesel heater has been running almost nonstop and works a treat.

We did cop a few days of strong winds and heavy rain with minor flooding under our awning necessitating some extended trench work to try and drain the excess water.

We were lucky to catch up with some friends from Mandurah who were also meandering their way through the eastern states with caravan in tow. Alan and Sally (and Rosie the hound) camped near us for a few nights and was great to catch up and enjoy some time together.

Not sure if I will ever make it back this way, but if I do it will certainly not be in winter. 

Great place to camp, nice country and towns – unfortunately no fish.

Short Video is HERE

Moorook Camp on the Murray

 Moorook is a very small town located on the Murray River between Loxton and Barmera. A Social Club that opens for three nights a week and a General Store that must struggle to keep open is about all there is - except for the citrus and grape farmers.

BUT - what Moorook does have, is one of the most comfortable camps on the Murray River with green lawns, riverside sites, bins, toilets, water, dump point and all this for $12/van/night.

We finally got the kayak off the roof of the car and spent a lot of time trying to catch the elusive (very) Golden Perch (known as Callop in SA) - lots of birdlife but no fish (except carp). The new outriggers on the Kayak worked a treat (thanks Aaron) and we are now both confident on the water. Hopefully we are now ready to land those big Murray Cod when we get to Lake Mulwala is a weeks’ time.

We did some touristy things around Barmera, Berri, and Loxton and fitted in yet another counter lunch at Loxton Pub.

As usual in SA it’s pretty hard to find firewood, but I was lucky to hunt some down nearby. Not sure everyone knows this but apparently it is illegal to cut wood on the side of the road in SA and when the farmer living near where I was cutting wood drove over to see me, I was thinking that might be in a bit of strife – but turned out “Wayne” the farmer,  was just dropping by to say hello 😊

We didn’t do much while we stayed for just over a week – just chilled out on the lawn, caught a few carp – batteries recharged and ready for the next camp.

Short video is HERE

Mannum South Australia

Free and on the river

 We decided to stay at a free camp on the Murray River (Wall Flat) near Mannum for a few reasons:

·        We wanted to spend a day at the Monarto Safari Park and do the Lions 360 Experience (where you get up close and personal with the Lions). The Park was just 23km from our camp.

·        I had to go to Adelaide to get a new radiator put in the Pajero as occasionally (once since leaving Perth) on steady long inclines the temp gauge started going up and we knew we had some hills to cover on our trip to north of Brisbane to Portland in Victoria and home again in the next five months. Adelaide is only 90kmn from Mannum.

·        We were also keen to have a look around Mannum and Murray Bridge as these were our first stop on the Murray.

Wall Flat is a very small free camp about halfway between Manum and Murray Bridge. Probably room for 3-4 Vans. We lucked out and found a nice grassy spot by ourselves. It was a peaceful quiet spot on the river and perfect for our five-night stay.

Feed me!

The Monarto Safari Park is a well set out Park on a huge area where you either walk through or take the bus and jump off at various attractions throughout the park. The “Lions 360 Experience” at Monarto is, as far as I am aware, the only place in Australia where you can get within touching distance (without being on the menu) of adult wild lions. A tip- if
 you’re standing behind a male lion who is about to mark his territory – dodge quickly to the side!

It was great to take the bus trip around the park but the Lions 360 made the day and was the discriminator compared to all other Parks/Zoos we had been to over the years. Lots of photos on the video at the link.

Tough out here?

So, a bit of sightseeing mixed in with laundromat, a counter lunch or two, a long day in Adelaide getting new radiator, a great quiet camping spot, and a unique experience at the Safari Park made our stay a most enjoyable one,

Link to video is HERE

 

 

Worlds End and Burra

 We purposely left Point Lowley (Fitzgerald Bay) on the morning before forecasted severe weather (gale force winds, massive tidal surges, dust storms, and rain) to get away from the coast and hopefully find more sheltered camping areas in our planned destination of Worlds End Reserve just outside Burra. Halfway to Burra after being sand blasted and nearly blown off the road we decided to bunker down at the Burra Showgrounds ($20/night for power). On arrival at the Showgrounds and checking out all the open sandblasted sites we decided on Plan B – the local caravan park that at least had some shelter, grass, power and water. We stayed three nights bunkered down, straying out for a bit of shopping, dinner at the pub, and a walk thru the town. We moved on to Worlds End free camp (23klm out from Burra) but liked Burra so decided to do a Passport Tour later in the week (more about that later). 

So, the blog is broken into two parts – first about our camp at Worlds End and secondly about our Passport Tour of Burra.

The camping area at Worlds End with lots of level sites in two areas well serviced by bins and three long drop dunnies. All the camping areas are adjacent to Burra Creek, which all though small, had small permanent water holes and flowing water.  Due to the permanent water there was an abundancy of bird life and some very tame kangaroos and perhaps a lonely koala of two (could hear them but couldn’t see them).  I was very impressed with the massive Red Gums that line the creek area and have included several photos in the movie below.

A few downsides of the camping area are - no chainsaws ☹, no fish in the creek ☹, and no wood to be found (I did have one successful wood scabbing expedition - finding a big bag of wood next to a campsite but unfortunately a lot was painted so couldn’t be used).  Fortunately, we still had a few nights of wood from our successful wood scabbing at Point Lowley 😊.

 

Burra is very old town which had its origins in the Burra Copper Mine which in its time was one of the largest in the world. In the 1970’s some residents decided that this rich history needed to be preserved, and since then, much restoration, preservation and collecting of artifacts has been undertaken by state government, local municipal bodies and a lot of volunteers. One initiative by the local shire was to introduce the “Passport Tour” where visitors for a small fee are given a key and map for exclusive entrance into many of the locked buildings and historical sites.

The mad hatter

We spent just over four hours doing the Passport Tour and were very impressed by the exhibits and sites – largely manned by local volunteers. The second part of the movie at the link below is a collection of photos of the tour which in isolation won’t be of too much interest (you have to be there 😊) but it will give you an idea of history of the mining era and the town of Burra. We liked Burra which is so full of history but also a very proud and supportive local community to preserve its past.

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If you are coming this way, it’s certainly worth a stop-over.

Longish video is HERE – first audio track has nothing to do with the movie – I just like ZZ Top 😊

 

Fitzgerald Bay

 

Silo Art - Kimba

After departing Haslam, we decided to do a small detour on our way to Fitzgerald Bay via Kimba to check out the silo art. Being a Sunday there wasn’t much happening in town, but the silo art was worth the detour. Stayed at an isolated free camp outside Kimba for the night and then headed off to Fitzgerald Bay.

Fitzgerld Bay is situated just north of Point Lowley which is thirty kilometres northeast of Whyalla. At Fitzgerald Bay there is a dozen or so free camps along a rocky shoreline of Spencer Gulf. I had been studying Wikicamps for some time and it seemed the best campsite was the most southerly one (or first one you come to along the coast road). So, after travelling from Point Lowley on a very rocky, rough road (turns out we took the hard way) we arrived at the planned campsite to find it empty, flat and protected somewhat by the headland.  Yahoo! 

After setting up camp I went “wood scabbing” where I visit every vacant camp hoping that someone has left some neatly stacked wood – hit the jackpot – had a fire every night and left with more wood than we arrived with.

Linda - squiding again

I could ramble on about how magnificent the location was, how fantastic the weather was, how great the wildlife was but I will let the photos in the video at the link below tell the story.  One other bonus was that this was the first camp since leaving home that Stella (the hound) did not need to be tied up and was free to wander around camp for the five days we were here. A young couple with three young children camped near us for four nights – Stella was in heaven spending most of her time with the adoring kids.

Mine Sweeper - HMAS Whyalla

We did spend a day in Whyalla to do so long overdue washing, go to Supercheap, BCF (off course), fill up the water bladder, and top up on food and beverages. I waited in the car at the shopping centre and Linda came out with food and $204 she had won at Keno. Only in South Australia can you play Keno in a shopping centre!

Definitely - one of the best free camps we have stayed at.

Link to short video is HERE.

Haslam (again)

Haslam Jetty

 After leaving Penong we stopped for food shopping at Ceduna and headed south down Eyre Peninsula. Picked up two dozen of the worlds best oysters from Smokey Bay and headed just a bit further to our camp for a week at Haslam. Oysters Kilpatrick that night for dinner. 

Been a few years now since we have been to Haslam but still the same quiet oasis by the sea. We were blessed the first few days with very cold nights (bloody glad I decided to install that diesel heater before we left Collie) and warm clear days. Got a couple days of cloudy skies and showers (thanks to John the rain god visiting) but all in all great weather.

Inky Linda

One of the main attractions for Haslam for us is the long jetty where with a bit of luck and patience a good catch of squid is on the cards. Linda as usual, excelled and we had two nights of squid rings for dinner and stacked away another three meals in the freezer. 

Talking about cards – on a visit to Streaky Bay for a water top-up, bit of shopping and a counter lunch at the pub – I spotted a crib board at the local Vinnies.  Linda has never played crib before, so it was “15 two? 1 for his knob? 2 for 31?” what the hell is this game!!  It was amusing for me and frustrating for her (I loved it!), but after a few nights she finally had a win.

Apart from the squid on jetty the only other activity in the town is the daily routine of the Oyster farmers heading out just after sunrise to tend to their oyster racks and coming in just before lunch with their produce. 

An old shucker

Once again, an enjoyable relaxing week at Haslam – probably drop in on our way home in October.

Forgot to mention – after 71yrs – I have decided on a project for our holiday – grow a beard. Not a pretty sight.

Short video is HERE

Collie to Penong 2025

 We left Collie on a cool and rainy morning on Sunday 5th May for a planned six-month trip to the eastern states.  Stage one was to cross the Nullarbor via Esperance to Penong in South Australia a trip of around 2,000klm.

First day saw us heading out through the wheat belt to a free camp just south of Lake King (an old Grain Silo storage area). It’s been a quiet a few years since we had been out this way and we were surprised on how green the country was. Farmers were very busy either preparing to seed or seeding. The silo art at Dumbleyung and Newdegate was worth a stop and photo session. We were the only ones at the free camp so a quiet night with a fire, dinner and TV.

Day two was more of the same - meandering our way down thru Ravensthorpe, across to Esperance and then north to our camp at Bromus Dam just south of Norseman. Once again, the country was flourishing, and farmers were out in force doing what farmers do (during the daytime anyway?).  The highway from Ravensthorpe to Esperance is finally in good shape and an easy drive especially with a 20klm tail wind. Bromus Dam is a great free camp with clean toilets, bins and lots of level private sites. 

Third day – into Norseman to top up the water tanks for the Nullarbour crossing, squeeze in as much fuel as we could before we hit the expensive roadhouses on the Nullarbour and point the Pajero east. Great free camp at Nuytsland Reserve (just west of Cocklebiddy) – with large private areas with a view over the plain. Yep – fire, dinner and TV again.

Where is the Kangaroo?

Next day saw us camping near the beach at the Old Telegraph Station Eucla.  Nice spot amongst the sand dunes. The Station was established in 1877 as part of the SA-WA telegraph line. As I said to a mate “I wonder what the Postmaster in 1877 would have thought of me sitting 50 metres from his humble adobe, sending emails, surfing the web and updating data in the “cloud” via Starlink using 7,221 low earth orbit satellites?” Reckon he would have been pretty impressed!

Having a whale of a time

Give me a minute to get on my soapbox.

After leaving Eucla we headed across the WA/SA border into the South Australian section of the transition.

We all know what SA stands for - “SHIT AMENATIES” or “STUPID AUTHORITIES”. From the SA border to Penong:

• Not one roadside stopover with a long drop toilet, or dump point

• Every roadside stopover littered with overflowing bins, toilet paper, and human excrement (due to the point above).

• Some Einstein in the Roads Department has now decided to barricade access to areas out the back of the roadside stops where you used to be able to camp away from the road noise with a little privacy amongst the trees. So now you can only camp in the asphalt covered roadside stop area with all the appeal for a parking lot (which is exactly what it looks like!)

• The scenic burnt-out car bodies littering the highway verges and some of the roadside areas are a highlight.

We were intending to stay a night at a free camp before arriving at Penong but gave it a miss and travelled straight through to Penong (a very nice little town and caravan park).

World's biggest Windmill

Only highlights were the cheap fuel at Yalata ($1.86/ltr vs. $2.75/ltr at Nullarbor Roadhouse and Bordertown) and arriving in Penong.

Enough of my ranting and raving – now looking forward to overdosing on Smokey Bay oysters.

Check out my slideshow HERE (out of sequence a little but you will get the idea)